Monday, August 6, 2007

Closing Out the Journey in the Mighty Jungle



Being a native of the Pacific Northwest, I have a certain level of connection to nature. Humans are connected to nature in the sense that it provides recalibration of the equilibrium, a source for refreshing one’s self, and an opportunity to learn and be challenged. Travel and new places also offer the ability to recharge, so when new surroundings are paired with nature, the result is an environment of unparalleled clarity. The outcome is an incredible revival, revisiting who you are and why it is you’re doing what you’re doing.

With that, it was only appropriate that the jungle of Ecuador was my last stop on this journey, providing clarity to review all I learned and experienced in South America, and an excellent reminder of some key themes this journey held for me.

Our Surroundings
Our Spanish School in the Jungle tour included the first two nights in one location, and the last three in another. Kim and I arrived at the Quito bus station early on Sunday morning to meet our respective teachers, Ivan and Edwin. Edwin was older, and while kind, exceptionally tightly wound. Ivan was our age, goofy, and…on the prowl (aren’t all Ecuadorian men?!).

I’m used to forests, ocean, and the ubiquitous green we enjoy here in the Northwest, but the jungle boasts a whole new array of natural treasures—and there were new surprises I had to constantly be aware of. Kim, being from Australia, the land of poisonous everything, taught me a lot. When walking we’d often stomp our feet to scare away snakes. We would store our boots upside-down when possible and keep them inside. Never did we slip them on before checking to see what was hidden in there. All bags were closed tightly and all clothes were thoroughly shaken prior to putting them on. Additionally, the beds got a thorough check before climbing in. I would carry my Deet everywhere, but I learned the hard way not to let it touch anything plastic as I soon learned it would melt all substances (and I put this on my skin? Right.).

Our first location was very primitive. When I say primitive, I mean that the toilet was basically on top of the dining area, and the sink would phase in and out of function. Soap? What’s soap? And don’t even think about hot water. But yet, it was still quite nice. Kim and I shared a spacious cabana with mosquito nets over our beds. The river roared next to us, which became a comforting sound within a few hours. There were hammocks on the deck of every cabana, and were used frequently. And while primitive might have less-than-ideal moments, it certainly offers the opportunity to illustrate your resilience and flexibility, both skills honed in the previous few months.

In the evening on the third day, we switched accommodation. Upon arriving to Shangri La, we were amazed! This place was just like the Swiss Family Robinson tree house, but perched up on a cliff overlooking the winding river and canopy below. Our room had actual walls and screens, and we even had a proper bathroom with hot water in our room! Kim and I were ecstatic. The shower was amazing, and much needed. The ice cold, low-pressure drip at the other camp was no match for the slime of sunscreen mixed in with deet residue. I was reminded that resiliency in primitive situations makes you more appreciative of more developed accommodations.

Testing your Strength (or Saving your Ass)—Adrenalin-filled Adventures
Each day held a different adventure and the second day we went on a waterfall hike. Instead of walking next to them and taking pictures, we climbed up the waterfall bed itself! Pulling myself up rocks in awkward positions was only possible in my unconditioned state with a surge of adrenalin. The cold water is thundering down, the rope is thin in my hand and those rocks down there looking painful—“buck up and do this!” I thought to myself!

There were three cascadas, and at the last one, we waited in waist-deep water while Eduardo (who is now Kimmy’s very own Tarzan!) secured the line. I was making a snide remark to Ivan just as I felt something thin slide past and graze my leg. Just then it hit me: I am in the jungle of Ecuador where there are countless creepy, crawly, slimy, poisonous amphibian beings! I had a hot flash of fear, jerking my head to see what it was while spastically jumping away. I then saw the culprit: the rope. Eduardo and Ivan were bent over laughing at me. Sigh.

Another hike culminated in yet more rock-climbing. In a narrow part of the river, we had to hoist ourselves up the rock faces with one leg and arm on one side, and the others on the other rock face, shimmying up while bats flew in and out, smacking us all over! It was another adrenalin rush derived from the incentive to NOT fall down the crevice and brake bones. The bats were a little odd and distracting, but didn’t bother me with my focus on climbing myself to safety. That said I was sure to make fun of Ivan, whimpering about having to go the route with the bats. I turned around, put two fists up to each eye, and twisting them back and forth emulating a crying baby, said, “oohhh, booo-hoooo! Estas cansada? Tienes miedo? Boo-freakin’-hoo”. I’m not sure he appreciated it, but I was getting a little annoyed of his whining. The jungle is for the adventurous!

Spanish Language
I’m always a fan of getting the most of every experience, so I was thrilled for this week of Spanish school in the jungle. Each morning we would have lessons from 8:30 until 1pm. I found them really helpful: While I was highly functional in Spanish, and could get around, I really learned from immersion in Argentina, so I struggled with grammar. Additionally, I had very sporadic vocabulary. For example, thanks to my little brothers in Argentina, I knew how to say, “F off, you son of a bit$h” in Spanish, but I didn’t know the word for “desk”. I’m still working on being a little more well-rounded in my approach to the language.

Cultural Insight
Food in the jungle was one of my favorite aspects of the trip: Everything is fresh, wholesome, filling, and tasty. With their inherent versatility, plantains were a component of nearly all the meals we had, and I quickly added them to the list of favorite foods. We had a lot of rice, beans, vegetables, as well as yucca, a type of root plant that grows in the jungle. The local people make chicha, a drink that comes from fermented yucca. The drink is common in all homes nowadays, but was historically meant for special occasions to encourage community, solidarity and equality. I tried chicha a couple times; drinking it from a big bowl passed around among friends, it’s tangy, thick, a little sour, and—my speculation is—a little tough on the digestion. But I’m all for absorbing the culture and sampling in the name of equality.

One Fine Afternoon in the Jungle
At Shangri La, our first after school special was rafting down the river in a vessel constructed of four inner tubes tied together. Myself, Kim, Ivan and our guide Bayron were all in for a wild ride.

It was a perfect afternoon and represented all the experiences I enjoyed on this trip. We floated down the river, enjoying the nature, the sights, the sounds, the company. We laughed at each other, splashing around, flirting, and telling stories. Everyone was relaxed: Our only task for the afternoon was to sit on the raft and take it all in. The air smelled sweet and fresh—a mix of flowers, damp trees, and incoming afternoon rain. The dark clouds loomed toward us, but we were in such a happy place that it didn’t matter, and after all, it’s the rainforest! We made a quick stop in a jungle community where we met some adorable children, visited a family home and sampled chicha. The afternoon rain thundered down just as we were leaving the small communidad, and we ran to the boat through the thick, gushing mud, the rain drops splattering and bouncing off the big leaves, laughing as we got soaked even more so than before, mud streaking our legs and covering our sandals.

Back in the raft we pushed off quickly to get back to Shangri La and out of the rain, but I didn’t mind the weather. I lay back, letting the rain drench me more, stretching and reaching to touch the water with both my hands and feet. I jumped when the boys splashed me and got up quickly to retaliate. And there, in the jungle, floating down the river, getting rained on I realized that like this whole, 10-week journey, I was experiencing something new with these other people, but knowing that in the end, the experience I take with me will be entirely my own.

No comments: