'Que Pasa?' - Madrid and Granada, 2005 Trip Conclusion

Written September 9, 2005

Madrid? Awesome. I have to smile a bit when I say that: even though I say it all the time, my European friends seem to find that word ridiculously amusing.

I stayed in a huge apartment on the top of a 6-story building. It was actually the quintessential Spanish apartment—precisely what I pictured in my mind. There were around 10 of us total. Two apartments on either side of the building, but with doors always open. The students all attended Enforex Madrid, each with a different background and itinerary. We had people from the US, Poland, Italy, Korea, Taiwan, the Czech Republic, Russia, France, Brazil, and the UK. All girls, except for lucky, lucky Joe, our token boy from London! We had a great time that week. I spent a few of the afternoons wandering the streets of Madrid, checking out museums, or just chilling in the apartment.

I went to the Reina Sofia which had Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali, Joan Miro and even a little Alexander Calder, a Mark Rothko. The Thyssen-Bornemiso also had an incredible collection. I got to see Edward Hopper, Jackson Pollack, Georgia O'Keefe, Henri Matisse. My first attempt at the Reina Sofia wasn't quite successful. Let's put it this way: That day I learned what Martes Cerrado meant. So Ananda (super-cool chick from the States) and I decided we had better sit at the nearby outdoor café and down a pitcher of Sangria. Me gusta sangria! The Spanish classes were enjoyable, but it was rather intense to have 5 hours a day as an absolute beginner.

On Thursday night after my Reina Sofia visit (I had learned to read Spanish schedules by then) I met up with Ananda and Joe for some dinner and drinks. Sitting on the very cobblestones of the Plaza Mayor is trendy, but come on: Six euros for fries—the equivalent of two potatoes, maybe—was ridiculous. They weren't even that good! Friday night in Madrid was a blast. After a long nap (so that we could try to go out late like the Spanish), we downed some more sangria and headed for the club of choice. We found a really cool club and danced the night away…

I caught my bus to Granada the following night. I arrived in Granada quite late, and as expected, getting to my apartment was an adventure. After this trip, these things really don't faze me. I got there eventually. The first day in Granada was devoted to exploration. Granada is an amazing and beautiful city. It is large enough to have tons to do, but small enough to be able to walk everywhere. With their collection of old monuments, churches, and plazas they have a mix of fantastic clothes stores and cute cafes. From the city, you can look up at the magnificence of the Alhambra. It sits up on a hill overlooking the town below, and as you get closer and closer, the surroundings seem to lose traces of the modern, bustling city. You walk along a winding, cobblestone street that parallels a tiny stream. Up to the left are narrow, crooked pathways leading to small apartments.

Enforex in Granada was a blast. I had the coolest roommates ever—Kristin was from Germany, Thalia was from Switzerland and Martina was from the Czech Republic. My class was great and I loved getting to know people from our class over a daily café con leche at the nearby café during our 20-minute break (which we observed in 30-minute increments). The two Danielas from Prague, Helena from Denmark, Kristin (one of my roommates), and I would chill out with our coffees in preparation of another 2 hours of espanol.

Tuesday morning at 7am I was standing in line outside the Alhambra in hope of getting a ticket for the afternoon. The Alhambra is the most visited monument in Europe, and getting a ticket is difficult. After two-and-a-half hours, I got my ticket (and missed my first hour of Spanish)! The visit to the Alhambra was definitely a highlight of the summer. The place is massive and only similar in spectacle to Mont Sant Michel in France. Granada is rich in unique history. Centuries of a Muslim-Christian clash have contributed to mix of styles and décor, resulting in a site worth the investment of time, money and hours of guidebook-reading. The top of the fortress had phenomenal views of the city and the gardens were so complex it was easy to get lost in them. I took tons of pictures.

On Wednesday, the school took a field trip! We went up in the Sierra Nevada and had class at an outdoor restaurant sitting next to a little river. On Thursday night I went with Daniela up to the Sacramonte caves to see a flamenco show. Flamenco is incredible to watch. I have never seen such force and intensity in dance. Actually, Daniela and I were convinced they would injure themselves! The setting was a small, painted-white cut-out cave room with chairs around the outside. Each member of the group would take turns dancing for us.

On Friday night, the school held the weekly tapas outing. In Granada, you buy a beer, and get to decide from a menu of tasty appetizers. I am still trying to figure out how they make any money—the food portions are quite substantial, and a small cerveza was only 1.50 euro. We had a great time hanging out with the drinks and the snacks, and then off to a couple clubs for some dancing.

I got up far too early for a Saturday, but it was worth it. I went on a sight-seeing trip to Ronda. Ronda is located a couple hours southwest of Granada. The city is built up on rocks. A small river cuts through the middle of it, and the depth must easily be a few hundred meters. Imagine a city up on the top of the Grand Canyon, and then a huge plateau overlooking the expansive farmlands below leading off to the mountains in the distance. The city had ruins from Arab baths, and we actually got to go inside and see them. We walked on the walls of the city's fortress, visited museums, saw the cathedral and went to the Plaza de Toros. The Toro ring was a highlight of the day. It was ornately decorated and all painted in yellow and red, which looked amazing against the brightness of the blue sky.

The last week in Granada was the final component of my TEFL Certification. After taking the mock exam and not doing well (even though all my notes were in front of me), I realized that this would not be a week of fun. I studied day and night. It felt like finals week from hell. After being a relatively successful student in college, I dramatically underestimated the intensity of this course. I worked my ass off that week, and thus, I am quite proud to say that I did very well on the exam and my final teaching practice. I am now certified to teach English as a foreign language!

Needless to say, Friday was a fun day and night. During the day I graduated from the TEFL program, did a little shopping and took a long, well-deserved siesta. At night I ran around out with my chicas d'escuala espanol. We went to some really cool bars and did the tapas thing. Kristin and I went to a rock club and danced until I dragged her home at 5am because I seriously think I was asleep on the dance floor….!

Saturday we slept in, did some shopping, met our friend Daniela for some "special errands", and then went to our favorite restaurant for a tasty lunch before we caught our transport out of Granada. I spent Saturday night with Joe (whom I met at the Madrid school) in London. It was awesome to actually have fun on an overnight layover, and it is always so cool to be in a real "home", as compared to a dirty hostel or campsite…

So here I am, in Seattle. Relieved? Profoundly. Sad? Quite a bit. It a strange mix of feelings. I came home from both the most amazing and most nightmarish experience of my life. I have seen a lot in three months—I have learned even more. But stolen suitcases, psycho bus drivers, car accidents and stolen money aside, traveling always restores my awareness for just how big this world really is. The act of grasping this (because no matter how far we have been, we never fully can) helps define the way I want to live, and articulates my priorities and values.
I haven't decided what I am going to do next. But I do know that I don't want to lose sight of what I have come to learn on this little expedition of mine.

I don't want to forget what it feels like to ignore the fact that your hair looks awful, because you are exploring one of the most amazing monuments in the world. I don't want to forget that while walking through the barracks of Auschwitz, any complaint or irritation I have ever had is really quite trivial. I don't want to forget my newly-developed techniques for showering in cold water. I don't want to forget that despite the irritations, making your own way is usually a more rewarding way to travel. I don't want to forget all that I have learned from hanging out with people who grew up in a completely different region than me. I don't want to forget that the experience gained from a situation is far more important than the circumstances.

Now that I have been home a few days and have had the chance to sleep on a supportive mattress, wear clean clothes, style my hair, and read menus with complete comprehension, I am anxious to see everyone. Please email me your phone number. That information was in the stolen suitcase, so I can't get a hold of any of you!

Looking forward to seeing you soon,

Hillary